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Date: 21.11.11-30.11.11 
Participants: Alex,Konstantin 
Location: Regensburg, Germania
Pictures: here

About the trip in Regensburg I don't have much to say. After all, it was a business trip - nothing special to relate. First of all, I was not in the mood to go there. 

For sure, it was kind of bad luck for me to land in Germany after a vacation in Asia. The things are totally different: on one side you have the colors, the joy of life and especially the laid-back spirit of Asia. A society without rules. One the other side, you have a high tech society led by thousands of rules. With robots programmed to do their tasks and nothing else. A place where imagination is killed. A place where lazy people like me don't belong. 

Anyway, after I was on the edge of a nervous breakdown, I remembered the Asia strategy, the one  when I wanted to escape of the annoying merchants: I start to mimic them. I use it also here.

I hated to be there and counted the days until I came home. One good part was that I had enough time to wrote my blogs. 

I can't stop been cynic and thinking about Yannis - our host in Thassos. He had time. Loooooot of time. And he run and cycling and live life as he want. And all  of these, when at few countries on the west, a bunch of robots take the same bus everyday, make the same job, have the same "rituals" day by day - without a change. And they have to do that, because our Yannis need their money. 

I don't know who's the moron  in this story: the hardworking German ant or the lazy Greek grasshopper. For sure I want to live the live of Yannis and the dream that in the spring I will go in Thassos again and then perhaps in other exotic country, make me feel better in the gloomy atmosphere of Regensburg. 

In the week-end is no way that I will remain in Regensburg - all the week the weather was foggy and humid. And I don't want to enlarge the suicidal statistics of this town. 

My luck has a name: Konstantin. He was my boss in my former years in company and in time we became good friends. We meet every year at ski in Austria and was aways pleasure to spent the winter holiday with him. 

So in the week-end I will go to his home town - Murnau which is at 80km in south of Munchen. 

As a remark, my praises were herd: on the way to Murnau, the train had a delay! I was the happiest man in the train. So it is possible, even in Germany! Everybody else became nervous and keep looking at their watches. It was something new and unusual for them  - the train to be late. This delay made my day and I was in a very good mood when I descend from train and meet Konstantin. 

It is pleasure to hear the stories from Konstantin - he has a special way to relate them. After he took me from the train station, we were at one of his cousin from were I took a pair of mountain boots - I came prepared for mountain  trips, except the boots. 

After this we went to his apartment were we met Michaela and spent the rest of the evening chatting. 

For the next day, Konstantin will take me to the mountains. First the idea was to go to ski, but the situation in Germany is similar with the one in Romania: a very hard drought has hit the country. From six weeks in the row no drop of rain or snowflake has fall. Is a disaster for the ski resorts in the area.  Taken this situation we choose to go to trekking. 

Murnau is near the mountains so we were quite early at the beginning of the route. As I consider German language impossible to speak, I blocked myself the part of the brain responsible with memorizing the name of the places - so I have no idea were we were. 

The track choose  by Konstantin was a remote one. And a hard one too. Like almost all the tracks in Alps it start climbing from the very first meters and it climbs on a very steep slope. 

It was not long before I start to sweat and to require "picture time"  breaks. The track itself was very beautiful  - it remind me of Tarcu or Godeanu mountains back home. Really nobody here. 

In quite short time we left the forest behind in order to climb on a bed of rocks. 

This part was also very steep and take us to a saddle. From here we were on a ridge which lead us to the top of mountain. 

On the top, we had our lunch break and enjoy the viewing. 

Every time I came to Alps I can't stop remembering one of the Romanian saying: "Romania is the most beautiful country, we have the most beautiful mountains, the richest fields and so on". Mhmmmm, mda, right - if your universe is limited to Romania, that might be true... 

Back here , in every directions I looked I can see only mountain summits. 

Far away on the south, the bigger Alps were there - the reflection from the glaciers can be seen from where we were. 

Murnau is located near Garmisch-Partenkirchen and from here the biggest peak of Germany can also be seen - Zugspitze. 

On the top of the mountains they have a book where tourists can sign, wrote impressions and so on.  A very good idea which can also be implemented in Carpathians (that of course after the people will understand that is not toilet paper  - so perhaps in a few years). 

After we conquered the peak, we continue our journey on the ridge. Again - nobody on the mountain, even the weather is superb and we are really close to Munchen. The fact that nobody was here was one of Konstantin most satisfying moments. 

I call it "mountain goat" - the only living thing we saw during the day in the mountains. 

We arrived at a chalet, located  n another saddle on the ridge- it was already closed in this time of year so my dream of Weissbier were vanished. By the way, I must be honest and admit that they have a very good stuff here: the Weissbier. Wonderful beer. 

From the chalet we climb a second peak. Again, we were rewarded with a beautiful view from the top. The white spot at horizon is the Stubai glacier - my first encounter with the Alps. 

From here we had to make all the way back to the car. 

The part of the descend on the rocky field added a little bit of spice to our trip - I almost run here and I felt good "to ski" on the moving rocks. 

Just before the night fall off we arrive at the car and then back to Murnau. In the evening Konstantin took me out to visit the village/town (Murnau is something between). A typical Alps mountain town - clean and quiet. 

For the second day, the trip will be shorter as in the evening I had to go back to Regensburg. Again, Konstantin choose a route near Murnau (this is not difficult, considering that the town is situated really near the mountains). 

And again, the route was difficult from the start. We climbed very steep from the beginning. The route goes though forest in very short curves and we gain altitude very quickly. The yesterday trip was like a warming so now I feel the engine running well. 

Just before to reach the ridge we passed a hunting hut were I saw one of that "mountain goat" laying in the sun... Well, I'm not sure it was very happy with it's stomach outside... 

Again, we were blessed with an incredible weather - too warm in fact. Here we are on the ridge. 

Konstantin call this mountain his "childhood mountain" as he came frequently here when he was young. And after I reach the summit and looked on the other side of the ridge I understand why. 

The view is breathtaking. At the foot of the wall we just climbed, lay the entire Bavaria. It was very easy from here to spot Munchen for example. 

Konstantin explained me that the entire area was a swamp and what remains from it are those lakes which can be found all over Bavaria. These were left behind in the old times by the glaciers coming down from mountains. 

We continue on the ridge having always on the left side the Bavarian plains and on the right side the summits of the Alps. Our objective is a rather famous peak among the people from Munchen. Konstantin hope that it will not be too crowded when we arrive.

The peak itself is at the end of the main ridge and the view from it explains why so many people come in week-end to climb it. 

On both side of mountains there are lakes. 

And the green color of the one on the right was really beautiful. 

Konstantin had friends here also - I think these are ravens. 

He tried to pet them using cheese. He throw pieces of cheese closer and closer until the raven eat literally from he's hand. 

After the lunch break we had to left behind the beautiful scenery and start the descent. And today also, Konstantin choose a circuit so we will not came down on the same route used when we climbed. 

We had a very speedy descent - just because, without any particular reason. 

After a short pit stop at Konstantin apartment we head to train station in order to catch the brain back to Regensburg. 

Well, this conclude the week-end trip to Alps. In the same spirit of the last blogs ( since when I came back from Asia I'm more flexible in thinking ) I will say that it was not better then in Romania, not worse. It was different and I enjoy these two days in the mountains. 

Thank you very much Konstantin and Michaela for your hospitality and your company. And yeah, in one month we will see again on the ski slopes in Soelden. 

Back in Regensburg, the last three days gone fast, as I spent the evenings together with my cousin and a lots of Weissbier. By the way, thank you Sergiu and good luck in all your enterprises - especially the one as father. 

OK, I'm on the airport now - one more Weissbier and this will conclude my trip to Regensburg. And as I wrote this story I became a little more indulgent - after all, was not quite a pain in the ass to be there for a week. Now, looking back, I think I even enjoy it (or at least part of it). 

But one thing is for sure: under any circumstances I will not move there to work. Maybe in Thassos, living a laid-back live and sucking their money... :) 


Data: 01.12.11-04.12.11
Participanti: Elena, Gianina, Alin, Vlad, Alex
Locatie: Negoiu, Fagaras
Poze: aici

Iarasi nu-i zapada. Asta o aflu inca din Regensburg. Tot de acolo aflu de la Elena ca pentru mini vacanta de 1 decembrie vom merge in Fagaras - mai exact la cabana Negoiu.

Cobor din avion doar ca sa fac rucsacul pentru a doua zi dimineata. Vom merge cu masina lui Alin ca sa avem mai mult loc.

Desi in Fagaras am fost de cateva ori, aproape de fiecare data m-am rezumat la creasta si la extremitatile acesteia pentru urcare, respectiv coborare. Asa ca zona cu Negoiu este total noua pentru noi.

Din Porumbacu (ultimul punct de reper cunoscut de mine) continuam destul de multi kilometrii la deal pe un forestier foarte bun. La capatul lui oprim, aruncam afara continutul portbagajului si ne pregatim de tura.

Urcarea pana la cabana a fost scurta si placuta, in acelasi peisaj tomnatico-saharian. Nici pic de zapada, nici pic de apa.

Alin, Gianina si Vlad sunt cu noi. Asta micu' a bifat deja mai multi munti decat vazusem eu pana pe la 20 de ani.

Am ajuns si la "hotelul" Negoiu. Unde din cauza lipsei de apa nu e curent si... nici apa curenta. Daca partea cu electricitatea nu ne deranjeaza (de fapt pe seara am vazut ca era), partea cu apa ne sperie de-a binelea. Stam aici trei zile, ne trebuie rezerve serioase de apa. Si noua si Gianinei si lui Vlad.

Intrebam si ni se zice ca nu este apa si ca nu e nici un izvor. Futu-i! Ce sa faci... Cumperi apa cu 10 RON sticla.

Apropo, pe mine preturile de aici m-au dat pe spate. Probabil sunt eu mai salbatic, dar am mai fost si pe la alte cabane. Care nici ele nu aveau acces auto, dar care aveau alte preturi. Si apropo, 2 euro jumatate pe sticla de apa este un pret bun si pentru Chamonix...

Dar cum Asia m-a invatat sa fiu mai indulgent, ii bag in pizda masii cu preturile lor cu tot (cum pula mea sa ceri 35RON pe cazare, de persoana?! Pana n-am platit, am crezut ca e un banc). Dar dupa cum ziceam si dupa cum se vede, Asia m-a invatat sa fiu mai calm si sa iau lucrurile asa cum sunt...

Pentru prima zi nu mai e timp de mare lucru asa ca pierdem vremea prin cabana. Alin face planul pentru a doua zi - printre altele trezirea e la 6 dimineata asa ca azi nu ne mai intindem prea mult.

La secunda suntem gata de plecare. Suna de sase si iesim din cabana. Afara e o vreme tipica de orice luna varatica, sigur nu de inceput de decembrie.

Traseul a fost ales tot de catre Alin. Pentru inceput vom urca pe muchia Serbota pana pe varf. Urcusul este destul de solicitant in bocancii rigizi de iarna. Dar avem deja antrenamentul din tura din Godeanu asa ca ne-am obisnuit partial cu harnasamentul.

Cabana este situata chiar la baza piciorului care urca spre varf. Asa ca nici vorba sa mai gasim ceva apa pe traseu.

Petece razlete de zapada au inceput deja sa apara, dar nici macar aici pe partea nordica nu e o zona cu un strat cat de cat continuu.

Lumina zorilor anunta o zi superba.

Primul varf din meniu este Serbota si coincide cu intrarea in creasta. De aici sunt pe teren cunoscut. Ultima data  am alergat pe aici cu Elena, Isvan si Captain la Carpathian Adventure. Frumoasa echipa... Bun concurs...

Urcam repede si rasaritul il prindem chiar sub varful Serbota.

Acuma o cotim la stanga pentru a trece prin Custura Saratii, una din portiunile cele mai accidentate din creasta principala. Lipsa ghetii si a zapezii ne face sa nu folosim coltarii - avem aderenta mai buna decat vara.

Imi place mult portiunea aceasta de creasta. Nu e chiar catarare ... sa-i zicem un teren foarte accidentat pe care Hoinarii au inaintat foarte repede :).

Daca era un pic mai abrupt ne-ar fi deranjat - nu suntem cataratori. Daca era un pic mai intins, ar fi avantajat celelalte echipe.

Am amintiri frumoase de aici: Elena fiind mai mica de statura era efectiv aruncata la deal de catre Captain, sau luata pe sus la cate un prag.

Se poate "fugi" pe aici. De ce ai face-o? Tocmai vi-am zis: fiindca se poate... Dar acuma nu fugim - nu ne grabim niciunde si nici echipamentul nu ne permite.

Ajunsi de partea cealalta a Custurii, facem o pauza de masa. Alin exerseaza miscarea ""catarat la firul ierbii".

Continuam sa urcam spre varful Negoiu. 

De pe varf privelistea te lasa mut. In primul rand e una din putinele dati in care am ajuns aici si nu am fost intr-o mare de ceata. In al doilea rand, este o zi cu o vizibilitate extraordinara.

Partea estica a crestei. Primul pitic e Serbota care de aici pare mica.

Elena la datorie.

A venit si Omul Negru in poza. In tura asta am reusit sa imi distrug Mammut-ul intr-un bolovan, asa ca acuma este "tunat" cu banda izolatoare. SLR-ul e obligatoriu in fata si a devenit un accesoriu distinctiv dupa care sunt recunoscut prin munti si in conditii de ceata maxima. Si frontala o tin pe cap, ca Diogene felinarul in mijlocul zilei...

Partea vestica a crestei.

Bun - am trecut in catastif primul varf de peste 2500m de azi. Am aflat de la Alin de existenta altor 2 varfuri de peste 2500m de care habar n-aveam: Lespezi si Coltul Caltunului. Nu mi-e neaparat rusine ca nu stiam de ele - sunt multe lucruri de care habar n-am. Si imi place sa invat si sa aflu lucruri noi.

Initial planul era sa mergem pe creasta care face legatura intre Negoiu si Coltul Caltunului. Ajunsi in saua de sub Negoiu realizam ca asta depaseste capacitatile tehnice ale mele sau ale Elenei si cu siguranta nici nu avem echipamentul adecvat pentru partea de catarare care se intrezareste in fata.

Asa ca o luam la vale pe Strunga Doamnei. La o bifurcatie o cotim la dreapta catre fundul caldarii. De acolo speram sa prindem un picior care sa ne duca catre varful Lespezi.

Apa e deja pe terminate asa ca o dramuim cu grija.

Am fost mai norocosi decat ne imaginam - din caldare porneste un traseu marcat catre varful Lespezi.

Asta a fost de departe cel mai tare traseu marcat pe care am fost vreodata. Repet, traseu marcat. Omul a avut o idee - ca trebuie sa ajunga in varf. Si si-a urmarit ideea in cel mai simplu mod cu putinta. Pe o panta care uneori aproape te arunca pe spate, omu cu bidineaua a tasnit in sus.

N-as avea nimic de comentat daca relieful nu i-ar fi dat optiuni - dar aici putea sa faca mai multe serpentine decat face magarul plictisit cand urca incarcat la deal. Dar el nu - da-i tinta la deal pe cea mai dreapta linie.

Repet, nu m-a deranjat. Dimpotriva, am considerat a fi o provocare si mi-a placut. Dar asta e traseu turistic la fel cum Custura Saratii e pista de alergare...

Admirand versantii sudici a Fagarasului.

In vale se vede partea sudica a Transfagarasanului.

Asta n-are cum sa fie Roza Vanturilor. E total ilogic. Daca vreti e Verdea Vanturilor. Unde e roz acolo ? Ideea e ca verzeala asta marcheaza varful Lespezi.

Lespezi este in afara crestei principale, asa ca ofera o imagine inedita asupra masivului.

Suntem din nou uimiti de vizibilitatea incredibila - intr-o parte se vede bine Bucegiul, iar in partea cealalta se poate distinge Retezatul. Intreg lantul Meridionalilor se poate vedea de aici.

La picioarele varfului se afla lacul Caltun, iar langa se poatre distinge si refugiul Salvamont. In peretele nordic al Caltunului este o echipa care inainteaza catre creasta.

Elena este multumita cu cel de-al doilea varf de 2500m pe ziua de azi asa ca opteaza pentru somn de voie si nu ne insoteste catre cel de-al 3-lea obiectiv al zilei:  varful Coltul Caltunului.

Plec impreuna cu Alin. Pana pe varf trecem peste cateva saritori, dar oricum este mult mai usor accesibil din partea aceasta, decat daca am fi incercat sa venim dinspre Negoiu pe creasta.

Ura! Am mai cucerit un varf!

Ne intoarcem pe Lespezi, o luam pe Elena si refacem drumul catre Strunga Doamnei. Coborarea pe abruptul innierbat de sub Lespezi pune la grea incercare picioarele.

Planul lui Alin este sa ocolim pe curba de nivel varful Negoiu si astfel sa iesim direct in saua Cleopatra. Un plan cu care suntem de acord - ne-a ajuns cu urcatul pe azi.

Parasim poteca si o luam pe curba de nivel. La inceput am inaintat rapid si parea ca o sa ajungem repede in sa. Dar dupa o curba am dat de primele obstacole - care aveau in cele din urma sa se dovedeasca insurmontabile.

Asa ca am terminat prin a mai urca inca odata pe varful Negoiu. Dupa ce suntem a patra oara in ziua de azi la 2500m, marim ritmul pentru ca noaptea vine repede dupa noi.

Din saua Cleopatra coboram catre caldare. Coborarea mi s-a parut interminabila. Pe deasupra este si abrupta si pe partea aceasta pietrele si iarba sunt acoperite cu un strat subtire de gheata. Odata cu lasarea noptii ajungem si noi in valea Saratii.

De aici un drum pe curba de nivel ne conduce catre cabana Negoiu. Jos in vale se distinge firul unei ape. Coboram si pana in fundul Pamantului decat sa mai dam 10RON pe o sticla de apa. Asa ca Elena o ia inainte in timp ce Alin cu mine plecam dupa apa. Pe care o gasim destul de aproape de poteca.

Poteca pana la cabana Negoiu este superba. Presarata din loc in loc cu podete care atarna peste prapastii fara fund. Incinge ca un brau piciorul pe care am urcat de dimineata - nu urca, nu coboara  - doar te poarta prin padure, pe deasubra vagaunilor catre cabana.

Inapoi la cabana ne cinstim cu o cina copioasa. La cabana au urcat intre timp si Horia si Adi Valean. Nu apucam sa povestim prea mult, fiindca cadem doborati de oboseala.

Sambata nu suntem foarte matinali. Ne intindem suficient de mult ca sa ne intalnim cu Anna Maria, Andreea si Remus care tocmai ce au sosit din Brasov. Asa ca ne intindem si mai mult la povesti.

De cu seara am aflat de la Gianina ca de fapt exista apa la ncii 10 minute de coborat de la cabana. Asa ca pornim in formatie de trei : Alin, Elena si cu mine pentru a reface rezervele de lichid. Jos e un adevarat fluviu. Deci nu exista apa, nu? Sa-i pis in freza....

Azi ne impartim intr-o multime de echipe. Elena cu mine o sa mergem sa facem o "tura tematica" la cabana Barcaciu.  Cum in creasta am fost deja, nu ne vine alta idee. Plus ca am inteles ca acolo berea ar avea un pret mai pamantean.

Azi este mai cald decat ieri, dar si mai innorat. 

Drumul catre Barcaciu trece peste mari si tari - in traducere, strabate vreo 2 vai si crestele dintre acestea. Un continuu urcus-coboras pe la liziera padurii. (Traseu excelent de trail running...).

Cabana Barcaciu este mult mai cocheta si seamana a cabana de munte. Berea in schimb are acelasi pret nesimtit asa ca ramanem la un banal ceai.

E inca devreme asa ca pe loc decidem sa nu ne intoarcem pe unde am venit. Vom iesi in creasta, vom trece peste varful Scara si dupa aceea vom cobora inapoi la cabana pe valea Serbota.

Intr-o atmosfera plumburie incepem urcusul de la cabana. Nu este la fel de sustinut ca cel de ieri, dar azi mergem un pic mai repede pentru ca suntem presati de timp.

Norocul ne surade si pe masura ce ne apropiem de creasta, marea de nori de deasupra incepe sa se sparga si avem parte de un peisaj apocaliptic.

Caldarea Avrigului de o parte.

Varful Serbota pierdut in nori, in cealalta parte.

Iesim in creasta destul de tarziu. De aici mai avem o portiune de urcat care ne duce in final pana pe varful Scara.

Aici ne prinde si apusul. Toate varfurile de aici converg in partea sudica in Valea Topologului. Una din vaile alea pe care mergi de joi pana apoi ca sa ii dai de capat.

De pe varful Scara o coborare scurta ne duce in saua cu acelasi nume. Aici se afla si 2 refugii (unul nou si unul vechi de cand creasta).

Din saua Scara am inceput coborarea spre cabana Negoiu.

Coborarea a fost lunga si neplacuta. Umiditatea de peste zi s-a transformat intr-un strat subtire de chiciura care a acoperit deopotriva bolovanii si iarba asa ca mai toata coborarea am fost in fund si am alunecat la tot pasul.

Pe la 19.00 ajungem inapoi la cabana unde azi ne intindem la povesti impreuna cu verisoarele mele.

Dupa o noapte in care eram sa murim asfixiati (am infundat soba cu lemne pentru ca imi era lene sa ma trezesc si sa o mai alimentez - logic, nu?) dimineata o lalaim la fel de mult ca in seara precedenta.

Ziua de duminica oricum era rezervata drumului de intoarcere. Pe la 12.00 suntem inapoi la masina, iar dupa-amiaza inapoi in Timisoara.

Dupa tura din Godeanu unde am fost prin zone necunoscute noua, a venit tura din Fagaras unde din nou am descoperit trasee noi. Vremea a tinut din cu noi. Si a mai fost o tura memorabila si din alt punct de vedere...